Sommaire

Italy in the spotlight!

It all begins in the Renaissance and continues into the 18th century! Freely inspired by Canaletto’s paintings, the prints evoke the City of the Doges, the Grand Canal and the painter’s dreamlike visions of the Murano glassworks. An Asian influence, in memory of great Venetian merchants and explorers such as Marco Polo, is illustrated by fabrics in shimmering colours. The graphic two-tone stripe, highlighted by a small dark border, or the irregular satin stripe, imposes its graphic spirit. The broad Italian-style Venetian stripe, chic and sophisticated, is still very much in vogue, and can be combined with the masculine English or Mediterranean version, which is both sophisticated and relaxed. The best idea? Combine them by mixing colours. In terms of geometry, the decor is dance-like, with abstract motifs inspired by Bauhaus, the legacy of Art Deco and shapes inspired by the work of Calder.

Ischia stripe, Nobilis (nobilis.fr).

Serenissima Collection, Pierre Frey (pierrefrey.com)

Soleil Levant Collection, Pierre Frey (pierrefrey.com).

The glory of velvet

Whether it’s plain, printed or jacquard, velvet, the star fabric for autumn-winter 2023/24, is a source of fantasy. In the spirit of a new boudoir, it slips into its intimate, delicate universe. A luxurious weave of viscose and cotton with a mirror-like surface, velvet has an exceptional hand and feel. With a double density effect and variations in the height of the pile, it has a subtle, falsely dishevelled vintage look. It expresses itself in all shades, adopting the floral motifs of yesteryear, animal skin effects and feline decorations, tiger, leopard or fawn, all with elegance and refinement. The use of antique looms and a semi-artisanal approach to techniques restore the silkiness of a natural coat. Shorn or devoured, velvet creates mossy patterns. Ribbed and generous, it comes in two thicknesses. Chenille velvet revisits the spirit of Cluny tapestry. With matt and shiny contrasts, it revitalises classic designs in a more contemporary spirit.

Footstool covered in Dada fabric, Misia (misia-paris.com)

Tiger velvet, Montana armchair, designed by Léa Zeroil for Nobilis (nobilis.fr)

Velours Faon, Nobilis (nobilis.fr).

Des tissages très élaborés

La saison privilégie la bouclette chaleureuse, qui se décline en 20 nuances. Elle s’associe au fil chenille pour accentuer l’esprit de confort douillet. Les tissages d’autrefois comme le jacquard Flamel ou l’Obsidienne satinée, originaires d’Italie, reviennent sur le devant de la scène. Le premier combine des fils de laine, coton, viscose naturelle et polyester pour dessiner des effets de trames interrompues régulières et irrégulières, façon rayures tissés, dans un savant dégradé de tons. La seconde offre une texture très résistance et une délicatesse dans ses teintes. La technique ancestrale de l’épinglé coupé refait surface pour enrichir le jacquard. Rassemblant pas moins de 26 couleurs de fils fins de coton mercerisés, doux et peignés, de viscose lourde et sophistiqué, il offre un tissage vibrant dessinant des zigzag très caractéristiques. Les fils flammés créent des reliefs bruts et naturels. Les damas, moires, brocarts et façonnés sont aussi revisités avec une libre combinaison de savoir-faire ancestraux et de procédés innovants, faisant de chaque pièce de tissu, une œuvre unique, dotée d’une vibration particulière. L’écologie s’immisce également dans les matières avec des polyesters recyclés, issus du recyclage de bouteilles d’eau minérale et d’emballages alimentaires.

Mona Style fabric, pinned cut (Place des Vosges collection) Misia (misia-paris.com).

Off-White forever!

With shades that draw their nuances and densities from nature, the off-white colour continues to cloak our interiors in its unmistakable elegance. The weaves play with subtle gradations that move towards greys, shades of beige, mother-of-pearl, twine, linen or canvas, eggshell or sand, to soften its brilliance. Timeless and non-seasonal, off-white makes its mark by combining with all the other shades, in contrast, to lighten warm browns, highlight leather or play with black and white. As for sheers, which accentuate the play of light, off-white and winter whites come in textured versions. Paper, plaster and linen effects, transparent shades, ivory glows, transparencies and cast shadows, craquelures with a hand-crafted touch – a raw, refined spirit emerges with fabrics made in Japan.